Silentkid's New Guitar

[_Who Knows]

For example, when playing a G chord, your middle finger should be the first to the fret. Then place your index finger and ring finger.

That's the sort of thing I'm not sure if i'm doing right, by teaching myself. I wasn't sure if G was supposed to be pinkie, ring, and middle finger, or pinkie middle, index finger. etc. Or if it really matters.

but yeah, chord transitions are hard - to do it smoothly and quickly.

As for your fingers hurting, that takes time. The callouses will help. Are you playing an acoustic or an electric guitar? If you're playing an acoustic steel string guitar, get light guage strings. Check the distance between the strings and the frets. If you're strings are too far off the fretboard, it'll wreak havoc on your fingers.

I've just got my brother's acoustic. I'm not sure what kind or gauge of strings. i'm clueless. or what the distance is supposed to be. I suppose i should take it in to a music shop, and have them take a look at it. it's like a 20 year old guitar.

Thanks for the advice bro.

[_Gazelam]

Im remined of the bassist for the Chili Peppers, who wore so much of his thumb away by playing slap bass that he would fill in the groove with super glue.

[_silentkid]

I wasn't sure if G was supposed to be pinkie, ring, and middle finger, or pinkie middle, index finger. etc. Or if it really matters.

There are a few different ways to play an open G, depending on the sound you want and the transitions you want to make. The most common is index finger on the A string second fret, middle finger on the low E string third fret, and ring finger on the high E string third fret. You can substitute your pinky for your ring finger on the high E or you can use both, with your ring finger on the B string third fret and your pinky on the high E string third fret. You can also play it using your middle finger on the A string second fret, ring finger low E third fret, and pinky on the high E string third fret. This is the most difficult to get used to but it makes for cool hammer-on chording to the C (think Father and Son by Cat Stevens). I would start by using the fingering that is most comfortable. Try each one out and see. I tend to avoid a lot of fingerings that involve the pinky because mine doesn't like to behave.

I've just got my brother's acoustic. I'm not sure what kind or gauge of strings. I'm clueless. or what the distance is supposed to be. I suppose I should take it in to a music shop, and have them take a look at it. it's like a 20 year old guitar.

If you have a Guitar Center nearby, take it there. They usually have a tech on hand that can take a look at it and let you know what they can do. A few adjustments (truss rod, action, new strings) can make a huge difference. It'll probably cost around $30 to $40 dollars plus strings.

[_Who Knows]

Thanks SK. I'll have to go get my guitar checked out.

[_silentkid]

Here it is, finally at home:



If you look closely at the bridge pickup, you can see me taking the picture.

[_Who Knows]

Took it into a guitar center, and they guy said (if i remember correctly - he was using some terms i didn't know) that he could lower the strings a little bit, and that it looked like 13 gauge strings - and that he could put on 11, which would be a little easier on me - but he didn't recommend going lower than that.

Thanks for the suggestion to take it in. I'm excited!

[_silentkid]

Took it into a guitar center, and they guy said (if I remember correctly - he was using some terms I didn't know) that he could lower the strings a little bit, and that it looked like 13 gauge strings - and that he could put on 11, which would be a little easier on me - but he didn't recommend going lower than that.

Thanks for the suggestion to take it in. I'm excited!

Awesome. 13's are pretty heavy. The 11's should make a big difference. Here are a few guitar related terms:

Action = distance between the strings and the fret board. The lower the action, the closer the strings are to the fret board. If the action is too low, you'll get

Fret buzz = when you fret a string, it buzzes against the subsequent frets closer to the body of the guitar.

Truss rod = metal rod that runs through the neck of the guitar. Over time, the neck of the guitar can bend slightly due to pressure from the strings. The truss rod can be tweaked to bring the neck back into alignment.

Nut = the little plastic piece before the first fret. Sometimes this piece cracks or is too high or too low, causing bad action and/or fret buzz.

Bridge = the place where the strings attach or meet the body of the guitar. Adjustments to the bridge can me made to deal with action or intonation problems.

Intonation = you can play the same note at different positions on a guitar. If a guitar has good intonation, the note will always be in tune, no matter where you play it. If it has bad intonation, the note may be in tune at one position, but sharp or flat at another. This can be a real hassle to fix, but most techs are pretty good at it.

Those are the ones I can think of the top of my head.

[_Who Knows]

Again SK, thanks for the information. And sorry for the threadjack. Nice new guitar, by the way.

I've been messing with some of the beginner songs here:

http://www.guitarnoise.com/easy.php

(like I said, i'm truly a noob).

You know of any other good learning sites?

[_Who Knows]

Oh, and I have a beginners book, where i learned the basic chords (A, C, D, E, G), so I know all those fairly well (and the minors).

[_Who Knows]

Got the guitar back from the shop. Feels SOO much better on my fingers. Easier to play now.

Question though - it seems like it holds the notes longer than before. In other words, after i strum a chord, and move to the next one, it's still 'vibrating' (not sure if that's the right word) making the sound from the previous chord. Does that make sense? Is that normal with the lighter gauge strings? Or is that how it's supposed to be, and something was screwed up before?